Rare Bit Blogging

It was to be expected but I’ve got the above. It’s a sign of a good holiday but my mood was low this morning. I longed to be by the sea, the soothing sound of waves gently lapping up towards the shore before softly ebbing away, on repeat, on repeat. All good things must come to an end and my next trip is in the pipeline.

There’s only one thing for it – get busy, so I finished tidying up and had a long stretch session. My body ached from all that driving.

Next up, practice. I’ve a wedding this weekend. Nothing too challenging but I still need to be on form. 2 hours was plenty for today and I felt better afterwards and for organising this month’s requirements.

I was famished so I had an early dinner followed by a stroll up West Nab and a gentle jiggle back down. The west coast of Wales is stunning and it’s won a place in my heart, but West Nab takes some beating.

Thankfully the weather has been glorious, although still chilly.

Sometimes you have to go away to appreciate what you’ve got.

and the final day of my break started rather oddly. I woke at 4am thinking of dolphins and hills. In my sleepy state I looked out of the window hoping to see them. A bit odd as I’m staying 3 miles from the sea and it’s flat.

I went back to bed but couldn’t sleep. It had rained overnight and there were showers forecast all morning. Typical! But I have been absolutely blessed with perfect spring weather all week.

I went into Aberteifi to pick up a few things. Yesterday I called in at Bara Menyn (Bread and Butter), an amazing bake house and bought a pistachio and raspberry croissant. It was sensational, with real raspberries, not jam. I just had to go back and get some bread. I bought the olive and rosemary focaccia which is some of the best I’ve ever tasted, and of course I bought two other types of croissant – blueberry, and chocolate and hazelnut. I can’t wait for breakfast and I’ll be eating broccoli all of next week.

I also popped into another major Aberteifi foodie shop on a bigger scale than Bara Menyn – Crwst (Crust). It’s something of an institution round here. You can sit down for brunch and coffee or get a takeaway. I bought a strong flat white and a sausage roll for dinner and I’ll have the other half for lunch on my way home tomorrow. It was excellent. A holiday isn’t a holiday without a sausage roll.

In researching a walk last night, I found an interesting place 30 minutes away – Foel Eryr (Eagle Hill, also known as Cerrig Lladron – Thief Stones). I was sold on the name and it sounded like quite an easy walk with big rewards. The panoramic views from the peak (1/2 a mile from the car) were incredible.

The weather was picking up though it was still quite hazy.

There were standing stones (another ancient burial ground) halfway up. Great! It really was the walk that kept on giving. The huge stones reminded me of West Nab, one of my regular walks back home.

In the distance I could see another hill the opposite direction from where I’d parked. I’d covered just over a mile and I felt I needed more walking. I thought I’d just go past the corner to see what the route was like. It was fine, straightforward if a bit boggy.

I could smell peaty smoke – I’d seen plumes billowing earlier in the week when I was visiting Pentre Ifan.

The gorse around me was charred black. It was quite sinister. A fell runner ambled past so I assumed it was safe.

I got to the trig point, again with amazing views.

This hill was called Foel Cwmcerwyn. The whole area felt unmistakably Welsh.

I ran a little bit on the way down. I felt alive, energised. I was buzzing. I ground to a halt a couple of times – a kite appeared silently out of nowhere and soared into invisibility just as quickly as it arrived. After 3pm it got really warm. I couldn’t believe my luck!

I went back to HQ for a shower, got dinner ready and went to Aberporth beach, the one with the giant dolphin statue. The cetaceans were ever elusive.

I wanted to finish the way I started my holiday – at Mwnt.

I was getting tired though so no sunset but instead of going down to the sand, I went up Mwnt Hill.

I realised halfway up it was steeper than it looked and quite treacherous underfoot.

I fretted about getting down but there was no way I was leaving without getting to the summit. I did and my knees went wobbly. There was a drop the other side. It wasn’t flat as I’d assumed.

I got my photo and tentatively made my way down. When I got to safer terrain, I went round the hill

and found a perch where I looked at the sea and the sun getting ready to set.

It was a magical way to end an extra special holiday.

I’m writing this in bed just after 8.30pm which should indicate how I’m feeling tonight. I finally hit a brick wall this evening after seeing a lot of sights this week.

This morning I went to explore the intriguingly named Trellyffaint (literally Toadstown) where there’s supposed to be a very impressive Dolmen (not to be confused with dolphin). Well I couldn’t find it, even after an elderly couple stopped their car to ask if I needed help. They were local and they were unfamiliar with it.

I decided to move on to another burial ground called Carreg Coetan near Newport. It was much smaller than Pentre Ifan but somehow more special.

And before you worry that I’ve got a thing about burial grounds, I’ve ticked them off my list. For now…

I parked on a small bridge near a nature reserve not far from the sea.

I went for a walk – there was a lovely tree canopied footpath with streams and wild garlic borders

which led to the coastal village of Parrog (not 🦜) It was really lovely there.

I found the coastal path again so off I went. It was warm with a cool gusty breeze. I felt revived by the elements and I swear the scenery is getting increasingly beautiful as the week progresses:

I walked almost 3 miles before turning back. I wanted to keep going. The route was considerably easier than Monday.

I noticed quite a lot of holiday rentals in Parrog and a few empty properties too. House prices have gone through the roof round here since Covid.

I went on to Aberteifi to pick up some supplies. I decided to squeeze in a trip to the abbey ruins in Llandudoch (St Dogmaels).

The site was huge. There’s an abbey in Denbigh but not on this scale. It was well worth the visit, a serene and peaceful place.

I came back to HQ to chill and I was going to go out to Aberporth this evening in another attempt to see dolphins. It wasn’t happening. I couldn’t face getting in the car again.

Only one more day to go…

and I’m getting pretty good at this holiday business if I say so myself. I started at Pentre Ifan burial grounds which sounds a bit morbid but it really wasn’t – it was quite magical actually:

Reading the description provided some insights and explanations, one involving fairies which I quite like.

In any case, it fired my imagination.

On to Cilgerran. I wanted to see a Welsh castle.

I’m amazed I’ve never heard of Cilgerran castle. It’s an incredible structure and so well preserved. A red kite soared over the sleepy village as I got out of my car. Things were looking up.

The castle is vast. Perched on top of the hill, it offered perfect views from all angles. There was a kiln:

and plenty of other castle characteristics. I could really visualise castle life back in the 13th century.

I wandered around the surrounding area and found myself on the banks of the Teifi:

It was peaceful and idyllic.

I went back up and chilled out on the grass beneath the castle.

before popping in to the surprising village shop. It had an eclectic selection of goods. There was even a refill section with staples like pasta and shampoo as well as local produce. I had a conversation in Welsh with the shopkeeper who explained that the coffee beans were from a producer who lives half a mile away. It looks excellent and I can’t wait to try it.

Back to HQ to freshen up before going out for dinner. Regular readers of this blog will know I like to treat myself to one special supper to mark a vacation. I booked myself a table at Yr Hen Printworks in Cardigan. It’s a Michelin guide restaurant (2023-25) offering tapas style small plates prepared with loving detail by Chris Walker. The restaurant is lovely, the atmosphere warm and relaxing, and the staff were brilliant.

I chose 3 dishes, the Cardigan Bay lobster wontons with pak Choi and coriander in a spiced mushroom broth:

It was sensational. The broth was beautifully balanced and the delicate tiny mushrooms were soft, meaty and so flavoursome.

Next up was a wedge of Hispi cabbage smothered with nduja which I’ve never tried. It was lip tinglingly hot and very moreish.

Last up was the lamb shoulder pudding with wild garlic and caper. It was rich and hearty, the slow cooked lamb packed with comforting flavour. I got goosebumps.

I didn’t think I’d have dessert but I noticed an intriguing little chocolate number on the menu and I didn’t take much persuading:

It was an unforgettable dinner. I’d go back in a flash. I have to stop myself from rebooking so that I can try the other three dishes I shortlisted.

I felt a little restless after dinner so I decided to drive through Gwbert. It was almost sunset and the sky was making all sorts of wonderful colours. I got there just in time:

began with some trepidation. I wanted to go on a longer walk as it’s a great way to get to a feel for a new area. Upon the recommendation of 2 locals I decided to walk along the stretch of the Ceredigion coastal path between Aberporth and Llangrannog. I always worry a bit if it’s an unfamiliar route as I don’t know what’s ahead of me. That’s part of the fun too.

I got excited as soon as I arrived at the car park:

I parked right next to the dolphin. Was it a promise of things to come? There were warning signs – don’t interfere with seals, especially lone pups. What? Seals?!!!!

It took me a while to get going – I was determined to see the elusive sea mammals. I willed them to make an appearance. I kept one eye on the sea just in case. After a while my attention shifted to what was right in front of me:

The weather couldn’t have been better with bright blue skies, warm sunshine and a cool breeze.

The beauty of Cardigan is that it isn’t overcrowded. On my walk I think I saw a total of 50 people. I passed a few small beaches along the way and there were only a few people there.

About 2/3 of the way to Llangrannog, I was startled by a screeching sound. I looked up and saw a black bird with long splayed fingers. It looked like something I knew, then I put two and two together – it was a chough!

I’ve never seen one although they’re prevalent here. It was so close. I saw 4 more as I ate my picnic, flying toward the cliffs, maybe to their nest. It was a highlight and made up for the absent dolphins.

Walking alone is enjoyable as I can go at my own pace but it can get lonely and the occasional chat wouldn’t go amiss. I was in good spirits though after a deep sleep.

It was a tough walk with lots of ascent. The paths were often narrow with vertiginous drops. It was a good test, and let’s face it, this place is exquisitely beautiful:

There’s a raw wild energy that I really love.

Some photos:

It was quite an uneventful day so this post will be brief. I slept until just after 7. I did some yoga and stretching to soothe my creaky body after over 6 hours in the car yesterday along with all the packing and subsequent unpacking. I always feel an urge to do lots when I go away. 6 days can be really brief when there’s so much to see and do, so I’ve cut myself some slack and I have loose plans for some days. If I have half a day chilling out on the cosy couch here, I’ll have had a proper holiday, but the weather’s so good!

I wanted to see New Quay as it’s a hotspot for dolphins.

It’s a tiny fishing village with lots of little shops, a few pubs and a selection of fish and chip shops. It was another beautiful day and the village was quite busy with people relaxing on benches and enjoying their fish and chips. I didn’t, but I might. I find that the smell of fish and chips is better than the actual eating experience.

I walked on the sand, then along the harbour and gazed longingly at the calm sea, yearning for a few fins or a pod. Nothing.

I walked a bit further towards a fish processing factory and gazed out there too. Again nothing. Apparently early in the morning is a good time to see them, or later in the day when the factory feeds them leftover fish. They often come right in to the bay.

I swallowed my disappointment and drove on to Cardigan, or Aberteifi 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿 It was bigger than New Quay and again quite busy. There was a market and lots of small independent shops but most of them shut at 4. I enjoyed walking around the town and I noticed it had a castle right in the centre. There was also a statue of an otter by the river:

Best keep an eye out for them too.

To end my afternoon out I drove through St Dogmael’s, where there’s an interesting looking abbey (perhaps a half day in Cardigan is on the cards before I leave) and went to the beautifully named Poppit Sands. (There are some lovely place names here – Plwmp, Mwnt, Gwbert etc) I had a quick look but decided I’d spent enough time in my car for today.

I called in at a shop for some vegetables and picked up a book for £1 –

Someone mentioned it to me – was it you?

started with a long drive down through the depths of Wales. I twisted along narrow rollercoaster roads in beautiful sunshine and felt slightly pleased with my last minute decision to book a cottage on a farm near Cardigan for the best part of a week. Despite numerous trips to South Wales as a child, Ceredigion is a part of Wales that’s totally unfamiliar to me. I haven’t been on holiday properly since last February. I didn’t really want to fly and I didn’t want to go to the east coast again so Ceredigion was the obvious choice.

I had to turn back twice as I’d forgotten some important things that I’d have regretted not doing/having with me so my trip was extended by about an hour. Oh well. It was a beautiful day anyway and once I got past Manchester it was plain sailing.

One thing I’d forgotten about driving in Wales is that there are very few services and definitely nothing resembling motorway services. After 3.5 hours, I saw a sign for WC and turned off the main road towards a small town. It was 40p for a pee. I went back to my car and rummaged for some coins. The toilets were pristine and smelt clean AND there was toilet paper. 40p was a fair price.

I had a stretch, took a big slug of strong coffee and resumed my journey. Only another hour and 35 to go! Usually after 3 hours I lose interest but the scenery was so breathtaking and the narrow winding roads ensured I stayed alert.

As I got closer to Aberystwyth, I saw red kites soaring quite low. After Aber, I lost count there were so many. I love kites, they’re very special birds and distinctly Welsh.

Suddenly, everything began to sparkle. It was the sea! At last! 5 months without that energy felt long.

I got to my accommodation, unpacked the car and was soon greeted by my host who offered me a basket of freshly laid eggs. Amazing! He was very friendly and offered me lots of tips, particularly about the best place to see the sunset – Mwnt beach. Look:

I can’t remember the last time I had the beach to myself. It was very special.

There’s a tiny chapel above it:

I walked around it and looked at the tombstones. The older ones were illegible, the dates and details abraded by the briny air.

I went inside:

As I approached the farm, a barn owl swooped low towards my car. A magical first day indeed.

I’ve been spring cleaning and decluttering my house. I started my ritual at the end of January actually. I like to get in nice and early. My favourite time of year seems to arrive sooner then. It starts on St David’s Day, then comes British Summer Time which means it’s almost Easter. I LOVE Easter ☺️

I love seeing the days get longer. Dawn tiptoes in and gently rouses me a little earlier every day. The warm embrace of her light is full of life and energy. Winter affects me more deeply each year. I find the cold increasingly intolerable. I have to tear myself away from the heater in the kitchen. I’ve gained weight. Bigger portions of warming healthy food have been comforting.

My joints complain but I exercise regardless. The attic is so cold when I go up but after 10 minutes my inner radiator switches on.

In other news, my psoriasis is significantly better:

I’ve had no itching since about a fortnight after I started acupuncture ☺️ From last July I diligently followed the herbalist’s advice for 5 months, cutting out lots of foods from my diet and taking the tincture 3 times a day but I think my legs got worse. Traditional Chinese medicine may well be the way forward for me. I might get down but I’ll never give up.

I’ve enjoyed a fayre free weekend. Bookings are down this year and couples are, quite understandably given the current climate, hesitant about committing. It’s heartbreaking though. Fayres are really hard work and a bit pointless if they’re not producing gigs. I look at social media like this 🫣 because I wonder what’s wrong with me/my playing/ my personality if I’m not booked up for 2026 and beyond and having my best year ever like some of my peers. Don’t get me wrong, I’m delighted others are super busy but it does affect me and it makes me question my services and my future in the industry.

I’m starting to emerge from hibernation. It feels like we’re definitely close to the end of winter. I mean, just listen to the birds! Their song is notably more upbeat and urgent. The air smells different and, although it’s still very cool, the sun is getting stronger. I always forget how long UK winters are, and how warm weather feels. It seems like cold is the only feeling I’ve ever known.

I’ve been out twice this week. Yes, twice. On Wednesday night I went to the theatre to what I thought was a creative writing session. It was in fact an open mic poetry reading evening. I was in the mood for writing, not listening, but I decided to stay until the interval at least. In the end, I stayed until the end, drawn in by carefully selected sentences and measured meters, astounded by authors who recited their rhymes with animated physical gestures, AND many read from memory. I was mightily impressed. I also felt a tinge of sorrow, reminded of my passion for performance, sharing the notes I had cosseted and cajoled (and cursed!) with audiences, hoping they got it, got me.

I’m not long back from my second visit to the local theatre this week, this time to see Hidden by Motionhouse. It was intriguingly described as dance circus and recommended by a friend who has a finely tuned barometer for unique cultural experiences. I was so impressed. Again! Twice in one week! I’m so relieved to be quenching my thirst for culture.

Seven athletic dancers expressively contorted their powerful bodies within the confines of a minimal set for an hour before the intermission. Sixty minutes felt like sixteen. Despite reading the description and watching a trailer beforehand, I still don’t have a clear understanding of what was going on. I decided to let it wash all over me.

The opening was joyous. Outfits were jaunty and colourful. The mood soon turned grey and apocalyptic.

The mind blowing acrobatics of the dancers made us hold our breath, and the gasps after a successful somersault were clearly audible. If I had a pound for each backbend… They made it look easy, but I know if I tried some of the moves at home, I would quite literally break.

Motionhouse are on the move – catch them on tour now!