I walk a lot. I love stopping and looking at the sky. I love the calming serenity of blue sky
but clouds make it look more interesting:
The sky is humbling. The childlike sense of awe and wonderment I feel when I look up is magical. Looking up helps me feel more upbeat. It takes me out of myself and reminds me of the vastness and enormity of the world. Looking at the sky diminishes my problems so much so that I forget them every time I go out.
How can exposure to this not change your outlook on life?!
I’m a bigger fan of blue skies and sunshine but even being out under this
changes my outlook. I think being alone in open spaces is some of the best medicine available.
The sky changes every day, every minute, every second. Cloud contours are fascinating.
On the rare occasion I find myself in a city, I look up as much as possible
Near Manchester Piccadilly
City streets and pavements are spat on, scattered with litter and dotted with spent chewing gum. Looking up is better, a reminder that the countryside isn’t so far away.
The architecture in towns and cities often goes unnoticed
but not if you keep an eye on the sky. We walk around town with furrowed brows or glued to phones so smart, they know us better than we know ourselves.
Quiet May is almost upon me. I had come to terms with having another slow month – the start date for my new kitchen is 6 May. Perfect timing exceptit’s now was6 May. As of last night, due to unforeseen circumstances, it’s 27 May, just when business picks up again. I had mapped out my month but suddenly, all those plans have changed. I can’t quite get my foggy head around it yet. I have plenty of music requests to learn but no weddings as such. Perhaps a showcase. It’s disconcerting but I’ll be fine.
I didn’t want to get up this morning after last night’s disappointing news so I dozed until 730. I’ve a long list of domestic tasks to be getting on with. Practice is a given and it happens at least 5 days a week.
I checked my emails and got really excited about an email from the library – the books I requested 10 days ago had arrived! At 53, this is what floats my boat these days, 4 tomes of mainly lightweight easy to follow reading, plunging me into the enviably imaginative worlds of unfamiliar wordsmiths, losing my way amongst their carefully crafted sentences. Look:
Is it bedtime yet? Simon Armitage and the bird book jumped out at me from the shelves and begged me to take them home
Evenings are my weakness and I can so easily doomscroll for hours. An Instadip often leaves makes me feeling emptier than before. I don’t know why I find it so hard to allow myself to sit in my armchair with a book for an hour. It’s a lot better for me than social media. Trouble is I start dozing off after 20 minutes, and before I know it, I’ve lost an hour and some. That’s the main reason.
Despite the kitchen disappointment, I’ve had a good week. Highlights were the occasions I made people laugh, twice in my writing group 😁. The second time was this morning when I collected my books. I love it when I spontaneously alter people’s mood for the better just without trying, just by being myself. That makes me feel full.
Finally, while I was walking through Marsden, I noticed these stone pillars sticking up:
I’ve driven past so many times and never noticed them. There was a blue plaque nearby:
It’s quite hard to read. Tenter Posts. Used to dry and stretch woollen cloth after scouring. Cloth was stretched to regain its size, on wooden beams fastened between the ‘tenter posts’ and held in place by hooks to dry, hence the saying ‘being on tenterhooks’ Grade 2 Listed
I went for a longer walk yesterday (Easter Sunday) starting with West Nab, then down towards Wessenden Reservoir, up to Black Hill and finally home via Blackpool Bridge. It’s my first time this year taking this much loved route.
West Nab was peaceful. I only passed 3 people. I paused to soak up the expansive calm half way down:
Standing stones everywhere and West Nab behind meWessenden reservoir ahead. These Mizuno shoes are brilliant, so comfortable
It got really busy by Wessenden. The grass verges of the stony path were disgustingly dotted with dog poo. I know I’m being presumptuous but I think a lot of non locals walk along here. They clearly don’t care as much as we residents do. We’ve had a spate of moor fires already this year (as well as the swan with unhatched eggs that was killed a couple of weeks ago at Windybank res…) The ground was bone dry, the moorland grass like kindling. I warily eyed people from behind my sunglasses in case they looked suspicious or had disposable barbecues concealed in their backpacks. Nobody said hello.
A cheery coltsfoot or maybe a daisylion
I was relieved to get across the A635. It was much quieter. I tried to have a short coffee break by the stream but my plan got sidetracked by these beauties coming down quite a treacherous path straight towards me:
Thirsty work
I haven’t seen cows up there before. Life’s full of surprises.
Onwards to Black Hill. It’s a tough last half mile and I had a few 10 second stops to catch my breath and take in the views:
Panorama
I got to the trig point:
Easter refreshments
but a bloke was just clambering on top to have his photo taken. After offering directions to a pleasant good-humoured couple my age whose route had vanished from their phone and had been going uphill for 5 hours (!!), I went a bit further down and had a proper stop to savour my half hot cross bun (I’m still not a fan but it’s an Easter tradition) and the rest of my coffee. It was so peaceful:
Peanut butter with a view
and the sun felt hot. I lingered a while. I’m never ready to go home.
Home time 😔 I wanted to play out some more!
I forget my troubles and my daily worries. The scenery is spectacular. I rarely get lonely. My internal chatter was upbeat and positive – I was good company. A bird popped up out of nowhere and sang a beautiful warbling melody and there’s always a skylark, singing effortlessly forever and ever.
After dinner I watched Until I Kill You. Anna Maxwell Martin is one of my favourite actors and she’s brilliant in this. She won a BAFTA for her role. It was so emotive. Her character Delia falls hook, line and sinker for a serial killer. His traits reminded me of a narcissistic bullying ex I had the misfortune of getting together with a few years ago. It was a learning curve to say the least. His controlling coercive manipulative tactics were offset by an irresistible charm and pretend kindness which reeled me in for a while. The injustice of Delia Balmer’s cruel fate incensed me. It’s a true story. Not easy viewing but highly recommended.
It’s Good Friday. Today would have been Dad’s 94th birthday. I felt happy remembering him this morning. It’s a bittersweet joy tinged with sorrow and loss (his and mine), wondering how he would have liked to celebrate his birthday. The emptiness can feel amplified on days like today. Emotions are heightened. It can be an opportunity for healing if I allow the feelings to flow to the surface.
I’m relieved I have a wedding to help shift my focus from potentially maudlin what-ifs to joyous celebratory occasions. I think Dad would have loved hearing me play Bob Marley and the FooFighters. He wouldn’t care what I played so long as it was me enjoying myself. He would have backed my decision to gradually extricate myself from the world of orchestral playing despite the often painful yearning I have for that music. He would have conceded that it was no longer an atmosphere conducive to thriving, simply surviving. He would have been proud of my endeavours to build my own ultra micro business. I think he would always have encouraged me to be unashamedly myself.
I have a tendency to put Dad on a pedestal but he could be bloody annoying too. He could be pedantic and picky. We used to drive him mad leaving our shoes lying around, oblivious of the trip hazard. He had a limp from a stroke he had in his 30’s. His gait was laboured. He was very organised, a bit of a neat freak actually. He ran a tight ship.
It’s Easter weekend too, so quite possibly an emotional double whammy, but I love Easter with all its optimistic symbolism so you know what? I’m going to have a fun playful weekend and I’ll carry his lighthearted sensitive playfulness with me 🥳 but the picky pedant can have the weekend off thanks.
It was to be expected but I’ve got the above. It’s a sign of a good holiday but my mood was low this morning. I longed to be by the sea, the soothing sound of waves gently lapping up towards the shore before softly ebbing away, on repeat, on repeat. All good things must come to an end and my next trip is in the pipeline.
There’s only one thing for it – get busy, so I finished tidying up and had a long stretch session. My body ached from all that driving.
Next up, practice. I’ve a wedding this weekend. Nothing too challenging but I still need to be on form. 2 hours was plenty for today and I felt better afterwards and for organising this month’s requirements.
I was famished so I had an early dinner followed by a stroll up West Nab and a gentle jiggle back down. The west coast of Wales is stunning and it’s won a place in my heart, but West Nab takes some beating.
Healing hill
Thankfully the weather has been glorious, although still chilly.
Sometimes you have to go away to appreciate what you’ve got.
That trig though 😉Quote from this morning’s meditation
and the final day of my break started rather oddly. I woke at 4am thinking of dolphins and hills. In my sleepy state I looked out of the window hoping to see them. A bit odd as I’m staying 3 miles from the sea and it’s flat.
I went back to bed but couldn’t sleep. It had rained overnight and there were showers forecast all morning. Typical! But I have been absolutely blessed with perfect spring weather all week.
I went into Aberteifi to pick up a few things. Yesterday I called in at Bara Menyn (Bread and Butter), an amazing bake house and bought a pistachio and raspberry croissant. It was sensational, with real raspberries, not jam. I just had to go back and get some bread. I bought the olive and rosemary focaccia which is some of the best I’ve ever tasted, and of course I bought two other types of croissant – blueberry, and chocolate and hazelnut. I can’t wait for breakfast and I’ll be eating broccoli all of next week.
I also popped into another major Aberteifi foodie shop on a bigger scale than Bara Menyn – Crwst (Crust). It’s something of an institution round here. You can sit down for brunch and coffee or get a takeaway. I bought a strong flat white and a sausage roll for dinner and I’ll have the other half for lunch on my way home tomorrow. It was excellent. A holiday isn’t a holiday without a sausage roll.
In researching a walk last night, I found an interesting place 30 minutes away – Foel Eryr (Eagle Hill, also known as Cerrig Lladron – Thief Stones). I was sold on the name and it sounded like quite an easy walk with big rewards. The panoramic views from the peak (1/2 a mile from the car) were incredible.
The weather was picking up though it was still quite hazy.
There were standing stones (another ancient burial ground) halfway up. Great! It really was the walk that kept on giving. The huge stones reminded me of West Nab, one of my regular walks back home.
A cluster of standing stones
In the distance I could see another hill the opposite direction from where I’d parked. I’d covered just over a mile and I felt I needed more walking. I thought I’d just go past the corner to see what the route was like. It was fine, straightforward if a bit boggy.
I could smell peaty smoke – I’d seen plumes billowing earlier in the week when I was visiting Pentre Ifan.
The gorse around me was charred black. It was quite sinister. A fell runner ambled past so I assumed it was safe.
Black Sea
I got to the trig point, again with amazing views.
Trig happy
This hill was called Foel Cwmcerwyn. The whole area felt unmistakably Welsh.
I ran a little bit on the way down. I felt alive, energised. I was buzzing. I ground to a halt a couple of times – a kite appeared silently out of nowhere and soared into invisibility just as quickly as it arrived. After 3pm it got really warm. I couldn’t believe my luck!
Windy much? I forgot my buff
I went back to HQ for a shower, got dinner ready and went to Aberporth beach, the one with the giant dolphin statue. The cetaceans were ever elusive.
Still no dolphins
I wanted to finish the way I started my holiday – at Mwnt.
I was getting tired though so no sunset but instead of going down to the sand, I went up Mwnt Hill.
Party on the beach – congratulations!
I realised halfway up it was steeper than it looked and quite treacherous underfoot.
A long way down
I fretted about getting down but there was no way I was leaving without getting to the summit. I did and my knees went wobbly. There was a drop the other side. It wasn’t flat as I’d assumed.
Ridge over (un)troubled water
I got my photo and tentatively made my way down. When I got to safer terrain, I went round the hill
and found a perch where I looked at the sea and the sun getting ready to set.
It was a magical way to end an extra special holiday.
I’m writing this in bed just after 8.30pm which should indicate how I’m feeling tonight. I finally hit a brick wall this evening after seeing a lot of sights this week.
This morning I went to explore the intriguingly named Trellyffaint (literally Toadstown) where there’s supposed to be a very impressive Dolmen (not to be confused with dolphin). Well I couldn’t find it, even after an elderly couple stopped their car to ask if I needed help. They were local and they were unfamiliar with it.
I decided to move on to another burial ground called Carreg Coetan near Newport. It was much smaller than Pentre Ifan but somehow more special.
The sign says the capstone weighs 17 tons!
And before you worry that I’ve got a thing about burial grounds, I’ve ticked them off my list. For now…
I parked on a small bridge near a nature reserve not far from the sea.
A message, if you choose to heed snails in top hats
I went for a walk – there was a lovely tree canopied footpath with streams and wild garlic borders
which led to the coastal village of Parrog (not 🦜) It was really lovely there.
In Parrog
I found the coastal path again so off I went. It was warm with a cool gusty breeze. I felt revived by the elements and I swear the scenery is getting increasingly beautiful as the week progresses:
Windswept
I walked almost 3 miles before turning back. I wanted to keep going. The route was considerably easier than Monday.
Wild horses
I noticed quite a lot of holiday rentals in Parrog and a few empty properties too. House prices have gone through the roof round here since Covid.
I went on to Aberteifi to pick up some supplies. I decided to squeeze in a trip to the abbey ruins in Llandudoch (St Dogmaels).
The site was huge. There’s an abbey in Denbigh but not on this scale. It was well worth the visit, a serene and peaceful place.
Abbey features
I came back to HQ to chill and I was going to go out to Aberporth this evening in another attempt to see dolphins. It wasn’t happening. I couldn’t face getting in the car again.
and I’m getting pretty good at this holiday business if I say so myself. I started at Pentre Ifan burial grounds which sounds a bit morbid but it really wasn’t – it was quite magical actually:
Huge boulders. The capstone weighs 16 tonnes! How do they know that?
Reading the description provided some insights and explanations, one involving fairies which I quite like.
In any case, it fired my imagination.
Balance
On to Cilgerran. I wanted to see a Welsh castle.
I’m amazed I’ve never heard of Cilgerran castle. It’s an incredible structure and so well preserved. A red kite soared over the sleepy village as I got out of my car. Things were looking up.
The castle is vast. Perched on top of the hill, it offered perfect views from all angles. There was a kiln:
and plenty of other castle characteristics. I could really visualise castle life back in the 13th century.
I wandered around the surrounding area and found myself on the banks of the Teifi:
Otters live here but I reckon the dolphins told them I’m in town
It was peaceful and idyllic.
I went back up and chilled out on the grass beneath the castle.
Safe place
before popping in to the surprising village shop. It had an eclectic selection of goods. There was even a refill section with staples like pasta and shampoo as well as local produce. I had a conversation in Welsh with the shopkeeper who explained that the coffee beans were from a producer who lives half a mile away. It looks excellent and I can’t wait to try it.
Back to HQ to freshen up before going out for dinner. Regular readers of this blog will know I like to treat myself to one special supper to mark a vacation. I booked myself a table at Yr Hen Printworks in Cardigan. It’s a Michelin guide restaurant (2023-25) offering tapas style small plates prepared with loving detail by Chris Walker. The restaurant is lovely, the atmosphere warm and relaxing, and the staff were brilliant.
I chose 3 dishes, the Cardigan Bay lobster wontons with pak Choi and coriander in a spiced mushroom broth:
It was sensational. The broth was beautifully balanced and the delicate tiny mushrooms were soft, meaty and so flavoursome.
Next up was a wedge of Hispi cabbage smothered with nduja which I’ve never tried. It was lip tinglingly hot and very moreish.
Hot cabbage
Last up was the lamb shoulder pudding with wild garlic and caper. It was rich and hearty, the slow cooked lamb packed with comforting flavour. I got goosebumps.
Not your average lamb shoulder
I didn’t think I’d have dessert but I noticed an intriguing little chocolate number on the menu and I didn’t take much persuading:
Manjari chocolate terrine with blood orange and ice cream
It was an unforgettable dinner. I’d go back in a flash. I have to stop myself from rebooking so that I can try the other three dishes I shortlisted.
I felt a little restless after dinner so I decided to drive through Gwbert. It was almost sunset and the sky was making all sorts of wonderful colours. I got there just in time:
began with some trepidation. I wanted to go on a longer walk as it’s a great way to get to a feel for a new area. Upon the recommendation of 2 locals I decided to walk along the stretch of the Ceredigion coastal path between Aberporth and Llangrannog. I always worry a bit if it’s an unfamiliar route as I don’t know what’s ahead of me. That’s part of the fun too.
I got excited as soon as I arrived at the car park:
Dolphins and dragons
I parked right next to the dolphin. Was it a promise of things to come? There were warning signs – don’t interfere with seals, especially lone pups. What? Seals?!!!!
It took me a while to get going – I was determined to see the elusive sea mammals. I willed them to make an appearance. I kept one eye on the sea just in case. After a while my attention shifted to what was right in front of me:
So clear Snowdonia was visible Yr Wyddfa 😃
The weather couldn’t have been better with bright blue skies, warm sunshine and a cool breeze.
The beauty of Cardigan is that it isn’t overcrowded. On my walk I think I saw a total of 50 people. I passed a few small beaches along the way and there were only a few people there.
About 2/3 of the way to Llangrannog, I was startled by a screeching sound. I looked up and saw a black bird with long splayed fingers. It looked like something I knew, then I put two and two together – it was a chough!
I’d like to think this is a chough but it’s probably a pigeon 🤷♀️
I’ve never seen one although they’re prevalent here. It was so close. I saw 4 more as I ate my picnic, flying toward the cliffs, maybe to their nest. It was a highlight and made up for the absent dolphins.
Walking alone is enjoyable as I can go at my own pace but it can get lonely and the occasional chat wouldn’t go amiss. I was in good spirits though after a deep sleep.
Good company
It was a tough walk with lots of ascent. The paths were often narrow with vertiginous drops. It was a good test, and let’s face it, this place is exquisitely beautiful:
There’s a raw wild energy that I really love.
Some photos:
FloraAnother small rural church with gorgeous features Directions I mean, honestly!Peaceful pristine beaches Bench marks
It was quite an uneventful day so this post will be brief. I slept until just after 7. I did some yoga and stretching to soothe my creaky body after over 6 hours in the car yesterday along with all the packing and subsequent unpacking. I always feel an urge to do lots when I go away. 6 days can be really brief when there’s so much to see and do, so I’ve cut myself some slack and I have loose plans for some days. If I have half a day chilling out on the cosy couch here, I’ll have had a proper holiday, but the weather’s so good!
I wanted to see New Quay as it’s a hotspot for dolphins.
Not today
It’s a tiny fishing village with lots of little shops, a few pubs and a selection of fish and chip shops. It was another beautiful day and the village was quite busy with people relaxing on benches and enjoying their fish and chips. I didn’t, but I might. I find that the smell of fish and chips is better than the actual eating experience.
Funky New Quay mosaics
I walked on the sand, then along the harbour and gazed longingly at the calm sea, yearning for a few fins or a pod. Nothing.
Catch
I walked a bit further towards a fish processing factory and gazed out there too. Again nothing. Apparently early in the morning is a good time to see them, or later in the day when the factory feeds them leftover fish. They often come right in to the bay.
Dead calm
I swallowed my disappointment and drove on to Cardigan, or Aberteifi 🏴 It was bigger than New Quay and again quite busy. There was a market and lots of small independent shops but most of them shut at 4. I enjoyed walking around the town and I noticed it had a castle right in the centre. There was also a statue of an otter by the river:
Otter shot
Best keep an eye out for them too.
To end my afternoon out I drove through St Dogmael’s, where there’s an interesting looking abbey (perhaps a half day in Cardigan is on the cards before I leave) and went to the beautifully named Poppit Sands. (There are some lovely place names here – Plwmp, Mwnt, Gwbert etc) I had a quick look but decided I’d spent enough time in my car for today.
I called in at a shop for some vegetables and picked up a book for £1 –
Someone mentioned it to me – was it you?
Words on the street in Cardigan – Calon Lân (Pure Heart – a beautiful Welsh hymn)