and I’m getting pretty good at this holiday business if I say so myself. I started at Pentre Ifan burial grounds which sounds a bit morbid but it really wasn’t – it was quite magical actually:

Reading the description provided some insights and explanations, one involving fairies which I quite like.

In any case, it fired my imagination.

On to Cilgerran. I wanted to see a Welsh castle.

I’m amazed I’ve never heard of Cilgerran castle. It’s an incredible structure and so well preserved. A red kite soared over the sleepy village as I got out of my car. Things were looking up.

The castle is vast. Perched on top of the hill, it offered perfect views from all angles. There was a kiln:

and plenty of other castle characteristics. I could really visualise castle life back in the 13th century.

I wandered around the surrounding area and found myself on the banks of the Teifi:

It was peaceful and idyllic.

I went back up and chilled out on the grass beneath the castle.

before popping in to the surprising village shop. It had an eclectic selection of goods. There was even a refill section with staples like pasta and shampoo as well as local produce. I had a conversation in Welsh with the shopkeeper who explained that the coffee beans were from a producer who lives half a mile away. It looks excellent and I can’t wait to try it.

Back to HQ to freshen up before going out for dinner. Regular readers of this blog will know I like to treat myself to one special supper to mark a vacation. I booked myself a table at Yr Hen Printworks in Cardigan. It’s a Michelin guide restaurant (2023-25) offering tapas style small plates prepared with loving detail by Chris Walker. The restaurant is lovely, the atmosphere warm and relaxing, and the staff were brilliant.

I chose 3 dishes, the Cardigan Bay lobster wontons with pak Choi and coriander in a spiced mushroom broth:

It was sensational. The broth was beautifully balanced and the delicate tiny mushrooms were soft, meaty and so flavoursome.

Next up was a wedge of Hispi cabbage smothered with nduja which I’ve never tried. It was lip tinglingly hot and very moreish.

Last up was the lamb shoulder pudding with wild garlic and caper. It was rich and hearty, the slow cooked lamb packed with comforting flavour. I got goosebumps.

I didn’t think I’d have dessert but I noticed an intriguing little chocolate number on the menu and I didn’t take much persuading:

It was an unforgettable dinner. I’d go back in a flash. I have to stop myself from rebooking so that I can try the other three dishes I shortlisted.

I felt a little restless after dinner so I decided to drive through Gwbert. It was almost sunset and the sky was making all sorts of wonderful colours. I got there just in time: