started with a long drive down through the depths of Wales. I twisted along narrow rollercoaster roads in beautiful sunshine and felt slightly pleased with my last minute decision to book a cottage on a farm near Cardigan for the best part of a week. Despite numerous trips to South Wales as a child, Ceredigion is a part of Wales that’s totally unfamiliar to me. I haven’t been on holiday properly since last February. I didn’t really want to fly and I didn’t want to go to the east coast again so Ceredigion was the obvious choice.

I had to turn back twice as I’d forgotten some important things that I’d have regretted not doing/having with me so my trip was extended by about an hour. Oh well. It was a beautiful day anyway and once I got past Manchester it was plain sailing.

One thing I’d forgotten about driving in Wales is that there are very few services and definitely nothing resembling motorway services. After 3.5 hours, I saw a sign for WC and turned off the main road towards a small town. It was 40p for a pee. I went back to my car and rummaged for some coins. The toilets were pristine and smelt clean AND there was toilet paper. 40p was a fair price.

I had a stretch, took a big slug of strong coffee and resumed my journey. Only another hour and 35 to go! Usually after 3 hours I lose interest but the scenery was so breathtaking and the narrow winding roads ensured I stayed alert.

As I got closer to Aberystwyth, I saw red kites soaring quite low. After Aber, I lost count there were so many. I love kites, they’re very special birds and distinctly Welsh.

Suddenly, everything began to sparkle. It was the sea! At last! 5 months without that energy felt long.

I got to my accommodation, unpacked the car and was soon greeted by my host who offered me a basket of freshly laid eggs. Amazing! He was very friendly and offered me lots of tips, particularly about the best place to see the sunset – Mwnt beach. Look:

I can’t remember the last time I had the beach to myself. It was very special.

There’s a tiny chapel above it:

I walked around it and looked at the tombstones. The older ones were illegible, the dates and details abraded by the briny air.

I went inside:

As I approached the farm, a barn owl swooped low towards my car. A magical first day indeed.